Malapascua, Philippines: Evolution Diving Resort Honest Review (2024)

Our second Philippine dive destination was the famed Malapascua Island. Diving with threshers has long been on my bucket list and Evolution Diving Resort came highly recommended by other experienced divers we met in the Philippines. We decided to check out Evolution for ourselves and witness these graceful and elusive animals up close. 

Discover everything you should know before booking your Malaspascua thresher shark adventure with Evolution.

Is Evolution Diving Resort Worth It?

Yes! By diving with Evolution, we beat the crowds and were among the first boats to arrive at Kimud Shoal to see the beautiful threshers. It was an unforgettable experience to be the only group of divers watching the sharks.

I also appreciate Evolution’s commitment to environmentally responsible dive tourism and reef-friendly dive practices.

Evolution’s resort was a quiet oasis tucked away from the loud roosters in other parts of Malapascua. It was totally worth it to sleep undisturbed, especially before the 4:30 am dives. 

Where is Evolution Diving Resort?

Evolution Diving Resort is on Malapascua Island, 6.8 kilometers (about 4.2 miles) from the northern tip of Cebu Island.

Click here to see the location on Google Maps.

How to Get to Evolution Diving Resort

The trip from Cebu to the resort is done in three legs.

I. Cebu to Maya Port (“Maya New Roro Port”)

1. Recommended: Private taxi

• 3,000 PHP for a private SUV taxi
• 3-hour trip with one bathroom stop (our trip was 5:35–8:30 am)
• Text/call driver: Mr. Crispin Perame +63 926 535 9303

❗Note: If you request return pickup from Maya Port, Mr. Perame charges an extra 1,000 PHP to come up from Cebu to get you.

While waiting at Bounty Beach in Malapascua to board the return ferry to Maya Port, we met some divers who arranged a “limited load” van transfer from Maya Port to Cebu (4 passengers + luggage for a total of 3,000 PHP). They were approached by folks working on behalf of the drivers. This arrangement seemed reasonable compared to the 16+ passenger van horror stories we had heard about coming up from Cebu (more on that below).

2. DIY on a Budget: Ceres Liner Bus

• 250 PHP, pay on board
• 4.5 hour trip
• Board at Cebu North Bus Terminal
• Schedule

❗Warning: At the bus terminal, be aware of drivers trying to sell you a spot in an overcrowded shared van with crappy AC. You’ll be crammed in with possibly 16+ other passengers, be charged more than the Ceres ticket, and have to pay for extra seats for large luggage (no trunk space).

II. Ferry from Maya Port (“Maya New Roro Port”) to Malapascua

Take the Malapascua ferry at Maya New Roro Port.

• Ticket: 200 PHP
• Environmental fee (foreigners): 120 PHP
• 30 min trip

You’ll wait until the boat fills up before departing. The boat is a traditional bangka so if the conditions are rough, you and your stuff will get wet. This certainly happened on our windy return trip as passengers sitting at the bow squealed with excitement each time they got sprayed.

III. Malapascua Bounty Beach to Evolution

When you arrive at the pier, you’ll notice there are no tricycles or cars on Malapascua. Motorbike drivers will be waiting at the pier at Bounty Beach. Hire a ride on the back of a motorbike from Bounty Beach Pier to Evolution. We had camera gear and hired an extra driver to transport it.

Unversed in riding etiquette with strangers, I was hesitant to hold on to my driver with the usual “squeeze of the thighs.” While gripping the rear handle bar, I had a teetering 4-minute core workout with a 20 kg (45 lb) rucksack on my back as we twisted through tight alleyways.

• Motorbike ride: 50 PHP
• 4 min trip

Accommodation

Standard AC Room

We stayed in the standard AC Room. Evolution has a 2-night minimum stay.

• 3,450 PHP / night (direct booking rate with breakfast included)
• Two single beds
• Hot water shower (can be a rare luxury in the Philippines!)
• Drinking water carafe refilled daily
• AC and ceiling fan
• Our room was farthest from the main building so we had no wifi in the room, but a weak signal from the patio (the restaurant had good wifi)
• Quiet location

At Evolution, we were relieved to be insulated from the pervasive Philippine soundtrack of crowing roosters, barking dogs, and belting karaoke. Since roosters are plentiful on the island, we were happy to pay a bit more for a peaceful accommodation.

Diving Malapascua

Best Time to Dive Malapascua

Threshers can be seen year-round at Malapascua. The best time to dive Malapascua is from December to May when conditions are drier and calmer.

December to February: Cooler season and lower humidity. It’s also the peak season, so prepare yourself for the crowds.

March to May: Warmer and drier, offering great diving conditions with calm seas and good visibility.

June to November: The rainy season will bring storms, reduced visibility, and fewer crowds.

Kimud Shoal Thresher Shark Diving

Thresher 2-dive trips:

• 4,200 PHP for 2 dives (with rental gear)
• Marine park fees extra

Evolution takes divers to Kimud Shoal to see the thresher sharks. In 2022, the threshers moved from Monad Shoal to Kimud Shoal. 

The dive briefing is at 4:30 am. I loved how the guides reminded us about neutral buoyancy, not touching the corals, and not chasing the sharks. Lights and strobes aren’t allowed as the sharks have big sensitive eyes. The groups have a ratio of four divers for one guide.

You’ll board a small boat which shuttles you to the big boat in the mooring field. The big boat takes 45 minutes to one hour to get to Kimud Shoal.

During the three days at Kimud in June 2024, our boat was either the first or second to arrive. When we surfaced from our first dive, almost a dozen other boats had arrived.

Since we came to Malapascua during the rainy season, our shark dives were a mix of two days of stormy conditions and one day of sunshine. Luckily the interior forward cabin was large enough to shelter all the divers during the storms. I felt bad for the crew as they were exposed to the elements at the stern where the helm was located. The outriggers helped to stabilize the boat and I’m surprised I didn’t feed the fish during the two hours of very rough conditions (though some of the crew weren’t so lucky).

From the boat, we unexpectedly saw threshers breaching at Kimud! The boat was spacious and on the sunny day, we had plenty of room to spread out.

We saw at least three threshers on each dive which lasted around 60 minutes. You’ll approach the sharks slowly with your guide and if you wait motionless, the threshers will come close. It was an unforgettable experience to observe these elegant, magnificent creatures looping around and above you at the cleaning stations!

I greatly appreciated that the guides were conscientious about neutral buoyancy. At one point, a diver was starting to float up to a shark while filming with his GoPro. The guide gently pulled him down by his BC and held him in place as he was filming. I was told by another diver that if your fins touch the reef while taking photos, they will also gently and discreetly lift them. The guides understand that divers may get mesmerized and distracted by the sharks and lose buoyancy control. I love how they show care for the environment and wildlife without ruining your shot.

The crew and guides were very accommodating to folks with mobility issues. An older lady requested to don and doff her gear in the water (no giant stride, no coming up the ladder with her BC on). I was impressed that the crew and guides helped her get her BC on and off while being tossed around in the middle of a storm.

During the surface intervals, we had hot tea and overnight oats with banana.

On the ride back to the resort, you can pre-order breakfast with your guide who will text your order to the restaurant.

Gato Island Diving

Gato Island 2-dive trip

• 5950 PHP (with rental gear and lunch)
• Marine park fees extra

While I had a great experience with the threshers at Kimud, I was disappointed with the diving at Gato Island. For context, I had been spoiled by excellent diving in Sogod Bay.

The boat experience was a bit more crowded and the reefs on the west side of the island were not in great shape. Honestly, the reefs at Kimud aren’t very healthy either, but the sharks are the main attraction.

Compared to Sogod Bay, the density of marine life at Gato was less impressive. Did I see any unique creatures? Yes, a flamboyant cuttlefish, an electric “disco” clam, a sea snake, a mantis shrimp, and a resting white-tip reef shark. Did I see dense schools of fish or vast stretches of healthy coral? No, not even close.

We got to swim through a tunnel, but it wasn’t very “fishy” and I didn’t see much in terms of other critters.

If you’ve dove more pristine reefs elsewhere in the Philippines (or the Coral Triangle), consider skipping Gato Island. It was more expensive than a thresher shark trip, and I don’t feel it was worth the extra cost.

However, if this is your only “reef” diving Philippines, it could be worth it to see an array of iconic critters.

The lunch on board was copious and tasty with fresh fruit, BBQ chicken and pork, salad, and rice.

Services

Evolution offers private transfers between Cebu and Maya Port, but we booked transfers on our own.

We did take advantage of the same-day laundry service (just say “no” to packing wet, funky bathing suits).

The Craic House Restaurant at Evolution Diving Resort

We mostly ate at the Craic House which had a wide variety of Western and vegetarian options. Vegetarians are an endangered species in the Philippines.

Anecdotally, I saw a 20 kg sack of raw meat being transported on the Malapascua ferry. It was sitting in the sun on the deck of the boat and leaking small amounts of blood. With that image of unrefrigerated meat seared into my mind, I decided to eat vegetarian for the first few days while on Malapascua. What a relief that the Craic House had a veggie menu!

The meals and drinks at the Craic House were reasonably priced with many options at 300-400 PHP. We enjoyed Happy Hour from 4–7 pm and took advantage of the good selection of cocktails, Irish whiskies, and typical Filipino beers. The servers were always friendly and attentive.

Malapasuca has a serious fly problem and it can be overwhelming to shoo them while eating. No matter where we ate on the island, we were swarmed by flies. Be sure to ask the servers for the bug zapper racket. My travel companion found perverse satisfaction in hearing their tiny bodies crackle.

Final Thoughts – Evolution Diving Resort, Malapascua

Our stay and dives with Evolution were fantastic. I appreciated the tranquil accommodation, helpful crew and guides, up-close encounters with the threshers, and good food. I am grateful that Evolution demonstrates its commitment to protecting the marine environment through its dive briefings and dive practices.

Overall, Evolution Diving Resort in Malapascua exceeded my expectations and I highly recommend it to anyone looking for a memorable and ecologically responsible thresher shark experience in Malapascua.